Sure thing John - here goes...

First thing - find a spare switch (yellow circle) - my dealer gave me mine and installed it during a service. I believe this switch is from heated grips and the centre switch (red arrow) is the one in use.  The dealer highlighted the two wires that closed the circuit for this switch. In my case it was the red and green wires. I lifted the speedo console by removing the two hex socket bolts - one shown within the blue circle (below) and the other out of sight on the forward section of the console.  
 


I then used about a 1m length of telephone wire, removed the connectors and attached the ends between the highlighted wires from the heater switch and the two telephone cable wires above (red and green).  The blue circle below is the underside of the switch and you can see the insulation tape I have sloppily covered the join with. 
 


I then routed the telephone wire down under console and the leather strap.  It fits neatly under the small metal bridge that the bottom hex socket bolt fits into.  I used telephone wire because it happened to house two small wires that suit the purpose - flat shape that fits under and through all the things that it needs to. 
 

Next, you need to open up a (spare?) garage remote, unclip it out of its housing and identify the switch it is using to trigger the door (mine was the one in the yellow circle shown below).  Flip that over and select the two solder points that line up with the targeted switch (2 blue circles). To be certain, you can use trial and error by first prepping the wire ends by trimming down a short section of exposed wire (about 3mm) and applying some solder to the wires. You can then hold these two soldered wire ends on all the suspect solder points on the circuit board, in turn, until the right combination triggers the garage door when you depress the new switch on the console. I removed the remote’s battery for all the fiddly work with the circuit board except for this part.  Once you get the door to work using this method, note the correct solder points and carefully attach the two wires to those points, ensuring you don’t touch other soldered points on the board. By the way, I used the 1m length of telephone cord to allow me to do all the circuit board soldering work away from the bike (you could shorten this if you wanted to).   
   


I then used my soldering iron to make (melt) a small semi circle in the remote’s housing (blue circles below) to allow it to close with the new wire attached.  Re-assemble the housing and you are all set.  
 
 


Just to be sure it will be OK in the weather, I placed it inside a small plastic box that I found, wrapped the spare cable length around the box and used some hardy hair ties (thanks wife!!) to keep it closed fairly securely. It all fits easily into the top space under the left side cover (last photo). I put a new battery in the remote, although it will be very easy to replace the battery when required.   
   

I hope that helps and I am sure you (or others) can improve on it (or do neater work!).

Let me know if any questions.

Works both ways I guess...