My Impression of 2018 Indian Chieftain Dark Horse Indian Motorcycle Reviews & Impressions >
Founding Member 7,820 posts V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
2018-indian-chieftain-dark-horse.jpg 
I had a chance to ride a Chieftain Dark Horse recently.  The last time I took a Chieftain out for a test ride, it was back in 2015.  Earlier models were equipped with tall windshields (same as the one on earlier Roadmasters).  Today, the OEM windshields are shorter.  They look very cool around town, but some owners say that they don’t offer sufficient wind protection on the highway.  My demo was fitted with an Indian branded 13.7-inch Flared Windshield.  More on that later.

I picked up the bike from Indian Melbourne Dealership and nearly dropped it at the first intersection. 😳🙈  Okay, that might be a slight exaggeration, but compared with my naked Vintage, it felt ‘top-heavy’ and wanted to tip over.  In reality, the Dark Horse was eager to lean over.  I suspect the steeper rake angle combined with a narrower, 19-inch front tyre was the cause.  Not being used to the added weight of the fairing with adjustable windshield mechanism, GPS screen and speakers, no doubt contributed to the feeling of tipping over.  It didn’t help that my Vintage needs a new set of hoops, so I am probably riding on tyres that are a little flat in the middle.  Have you noticed how a new set of tyres restores the handling of your bike?  It’s a thing!  I’m not making this up. 😏

Jumping off a Vintage and riding a bike with a dashboard felt odd to me.  It was information overload as well.  It could be just me but, when I look at the speedo and tacho gauges, it still seems like ‘eyes are too far apart’. 😲  There are plenty of information displayed on the Ride Command.  The inner geek in me liked that three default screens could be customised.  The best feature of the Ride Command is the glove-friendly touchscreen.  

2018-chieftain-darkhorse-dash.jpg 

It is good to have a built-in GPS - always handy to have.  Not that I was heading anywhere in particular, but I tried out the GPS.  I set my destination.  The Ride Command told me to go straight for 300m and then perform a U-Turn at the intersection.  Since it was safe to do so, I turn around on the spot.  The Ride Command went into ’Recalculating Route’ and froze.  Even after 5 minutes, it was stuck on that screen.  Fortunately, I didn’t have to reboot.  I could cancel the destination and re-selected the same destination.

I couldn’t figure out how to mute the radio and keep the GPS volume audible.  In hindsight, I guess I could have selected a different music source like the USB or Bluetooth, and that would have stopped the radio. 🎵🎶

Another thing to get used to is the new switch layout on the handlebar control blocks.  Despite the slim design, when compared with my 2016 Vintage, I still couldn’t reach all the buttons while holding on to the grips.  The buttons felt a bit soft and mushy too.  When I pressed some buttons, I don’t know if I activated it or not.  In particular, the turning signal cancellation button.  Indicating left or right was fine but pressing the button in to cancel the turn indicators felt spongy and didn’t offer the tactile feedback I expected.  In addition, despite the difference in button design, the audio control button is located just below the turn signal switch. On more than one occasion, I pressed the music button right and skipped the radio station, instead of indicating right. 🙈  No doubt, in time, muscle memory could overcome that confusion.

Speaking of music, I can see the appeal of riding with the music blasting out on the open road.  When my wife and I were touring the Southwest of the USA in October 2017 for 3 weeks, our rental bike was a Harley-Davidson Street Glide.  It was equipped with the Boom Box Audio system, and its speakers were pathetic.  A lot of times, I had the volume on full, and we could only just hear the music.  Of course, we were cruising at 90mph (150kph) on some desert highways.  On this Dark Horse, volume level 4 was more than adequate to hear the music, loud and clear at 110kph.

Back in 2015, my demo ride of a Chieftain ended prematurely.  Even with a taller OEM windshield, my helmet was buffeted severely - to be clear, that is rapid oscillation or side-to-side shaking of the helmet from 70kph and up.  I tried adjusting the windshield without any luck.  It may have been a particularly windy day or an unfavourable wind direction.  In any case, I returned the bike within 30 minutes and decided that the Chieftain was not the right bike for me.  So I had mixed feelings about this demo ride with 13.7-inch Indian flared windshield.

Someone told me a good rule of thumb when choosing the height of a windshield.  First, determine your line of sight.  Pick a long, straight and flat road (not going up or down the hill) and look about 50m ahead on the road.  Top of the windshield should be a couple of inches below that imaginary sight line.  A flared windshield generally kick-up the air higher than a straight-edged windshield so they can be positioned even lower.  Of course, the distance of the helmet from the windshield will have an impact, as does the shape or design of the helmet.

2018-chieftain-dark-horse.jpg 

As a reference, I am 6’2” in height.  So others may experience different results to me.  Also, the wind was very calm on the day of the test ride.  Anything up to around 60kph - 65kph, I could keep the windshield at the lowest position.  I was utterly comfortable with my open face helmet.  Once I exceeded 70kph, I needed to raise the windshield so that the top edge of the black base plate (with the letterbox wind holes cut out) was barely visible from the rider’s perspective (I estimate about 3-inches raised out of 4-inches of possible movement).  In fact, that position was good enough to the maximum legal speed, most of the time.  On odd occasions, when the wind direction changed, raising the windshield to its maximum height did help.

Once I adjusted the windshield and created a suitable air pocket for myself, I went about further evaluating the merits of Indian’s 13.7-inch flared windshield.  First, I raised it to the maximum height.  Then I lifted my hand above the helmet to feel the current of air flowing above me.  I had about 2-inches of headroom.  Therefore, I concluded that 13.7-inch screen was tall enough for me.  

For the benefit of other naked bike riders, I will set the expectations straight.  On a naked bike like the Scout or Chief, the wind hitting the rider is 'clean'.  That is, smooth and less turbulent but constant.  Even with the flared windshield, at 110kph, I am not sitting in a dead, calm pocket of air with zero air movements.  That can be experienced if I lean over the tank more and tuck my head down a couple of inches.  But when sitting back and riding in a normal position, some air movement, therefore head movement is unavoidable.  When I placed my hand in front of my chest, I felt no air movements whatsoever. It was nice not to be beaten up by the wind.  I was noticeably less fatigued after the 3 hour ride.  I think I am getting old! 🤔😬

I continued to probe with my hand for air movement around the cockpit.  There was a reasonable amount of air blowing up from beneath.  It is almost like the wind was using my legs as a ramp and flowing upwards.  I was pleasantly surprised that, when I hugged the tank with my knees, I hardly got any air hitting my legs.  It is difficult to make a call only after 3 hours, but if I owned a Chieftain, I would consider fitting a 13.7-inch flared windshield on my bike.  Not sure how they will perform in the rain.

The best news is that all 2018 Thunder Stroke 111s are fitted with different design pistons compared to all previous models.  The newly designed piston utilises asymmetric skirts (skirt on one side is very narrow, while the other side is wider).  New pistons seem to prevent slapping, which was one of the common causes of ‘clacking’.  

The demo bike had no signs of clacking, but it only had 3,300kms on the clock.  Although some Indians clacked from day one, many started clacking after several thousand kilometres.  My 2015 Indian Chief Vintage only begun clacking at 5,000kms.  My replacement, the 2016 Vintage started clacking at about 3,000kms, as soon as I fitted the Stage 2 Camshafts.  So I will remain optimistic, but this quiet demo bike is not conclusive evidence yet.

2018-indian-chieftain-dark-horse-riding.jpg 

The demo bike did exhibit two unusual sounds.  One was a high pitch sound that I could hear over the Stage 1 pipes at idle.  It was very loud at times.  Switching the headlight from low beam to high beam did interrupt the sound for a split second, so it must be an electrical issue.  Possible something to do with the audio system, even though I had the speaker volume set to mute.  My guess is interference from the alternator.  Hopefully, this is one off and not all 2018 Indians suffer from this issue.

The second unusual noise sounded like a small bell.  I should have checked under the bike for a gremlin bell.   I suspect the cause might be the adjustable windshield mechanism.  However, I shook the windshield a few times, and it made no impact, so I am uncertain as to the cause.

Over all, it was not that dis-similar to my 2016 Indian.  Even the gearbox felt similar to shift.  Clutch engagement also felt alike.

I also noticed the front brake lever had a different adjuster to suit different hand sizes.  It was perfect where it was so I didn’t play around with it.  Hopefully it offers greater range of adjustment than the pre-2018 models.

The side stand was easier to fold out.  I guess it has a softer spring?

After the test ride, I returned the bike and jumped back on my own.  The steering on my Vintage felt heavy and ‘less connected’.  For the past 3 years, I didn’t have any issues with how my bike handled, but suddenly, it felt foreign to me.  On my Vintage, when I encountered a harsh mid-corner bump, the front end flexes and wobbles before pointing straight again.  It is slightly disconcerting.  I didn’t experience that sensation on the Chieftain.  Funny how one can get used to the new environment so quickly.  I hate to admit it, but I did enjoy the way the Chieftain handled and turned into corners.  I cannot be certain but it felt more nimble than the 16-inch front wheeled Chieftain.

This demo ride may prove to be an expensive free ride. 🤔🙉
Melbourne, Victoria
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CHF10 Senior Member 2,396 posts
CHF10
Think I'll grab that demo when mine is in for the 8000km service... Compare front wheels, windshields and dash. 
Live free or die!
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
CHF10 wrote:
Think I'll grab that demo when mine is in for the 8000km service... Compare front wheels, windshields and dash. 
It’s Roman’s old bike.  It is now cleaned up and sitting in the showroom so not sure if it can be demo-ed but if it could, I would welcome a second opinion from an existing Chieftain owner.
Melbourne, Victoria
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Damich Administrator 524 posts
Damich
Ahhh you’re moving to the classy side of Indians. 
Damian
North East Melb
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
Damich wrote:
Ahhh you’re moving to the classy side of Indians. 
Let’s see how the numbers stack up. 🤔  
Melbourne, Victoria
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Cloud Full Member 355 posts
Cloud
i liked ur review, awsum, i noticed things like that also and asked y mine doesnt do this or do that, or it feels different, after all they they are all the same frame with the exception of the rake on the chieftan up, clutch, feeling heavier, throttle response, or lack of it, and other little things seem a bit more precise on the higher end bikes, mite just be me expecting more from my money
Ride Safe, Ride Often
2016 Chief Dark Horse
with a few modest mods
NOR Perth WA

IMRG AU - 101381
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
Cloud wrote:
i noticed things like that also and asked y mine doesnt do this or do that, or it feels different, after all they they are all the same frame with the exception of the rake on the chieftan up, clutch, feeling heavier, throttle response, or lack of it, and other little things seem a bit more precise on the higher end bikes, mite just be me expecting more from my money
Hey Cloud, glad you liked what I wrote. 

I don't mean to be nasty here, but I am having trouble understanding you.  I think I got the 'vibe' of your post.  Please correct me if I misunderstood you.

I have ridden nearly 25 Thunder Stroke 111 Indians over the past 3.5 years.  Your Chief DH and say a Roadmaster should have the same feel.  Having said that, Polaris does have a rather large manufacturing tolerances they consider acceptable.  As such, some bikes have, say clunkier gear boxes than others.  Some rattle or clack (it seems due to piston slap) while others don't.  Also, later models will be more refined due to component revisions. 

You are right, Chieftain does have steeper rake angle, and therefore, they turn in to corners better than your Chief DH or my Vintage.  The feel of the clutch 'could be' due to how it was serviced.  Some dealers don't lube the cable as well as others OR rubbish just accumulate over time inside the cable and feel stiff.  Even the gearbox clunkiness can come down to how well the clutch cable has been adjusted. 

You mentioned throttle response... aside from Indian Stage performance upgrades come with their own performance tune, the only variation might be the age of the Indian flush tune.  For example, when I first got my Stage 2 cams 2 years ago, the Indian tune for Stage 2 was rubbish!  But these days, they are much more refined.
Melbourne, Victoria
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stevenlb21 Senior Member 928 posts
stevenlb21
Im going into Indian within the week to check out the new bike but in particular to have a look at the screen arrangement on them
Cheers......Steve
Penrith, NSW

2015 Indian Chieftain (Indian Motorcycle Red)
"TECUMSEH"
IMRG Membership No.  AU101486

Meanwhile back at the Ranch, Tonto disguised as a door gets his knob shot off !!!.
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
stevenlb21 wrote:
in particular to have a look at the screen arrangement on them
On one of the GPS models?  What are you thinking?  Do you like the layout?  Don't like it?  Want GPS?  Don't want it?
Melbourne, Victoria
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Robbo Founding Member 1,178 posts
Robbo
Nice write up thanks V
Despite the benefits, I am not ready to give up my naked bike just yet.
2017 Dark Horse  - Stage 2, Rush Pipes

Location - Perth, Western Australia
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
Robbo wrote:
Nice write up thanks V Despite the benefits, I am not ready to give up my naked bike just yet.
Thanks Robby.  I have gone soft mate. 🙁
Melbourne, Victoria
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Cloud Full Member 355 posts
Cloud
V-Twin, I just need to stop comparing things and do wat i need to do to get mine where i want it..
Ride Safe, Ride Often
2016 Chief Dark Horse
with a few modest mods
NOR Perth WA

IMRG AU - 101381
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crash Founding Member 2,565 posts
crash
V-Twin wrote:
Thanks Robby.  I have gone soft mate. 🙁
Oh my goodness V-Twin, soft you say........ That indicates that this is more than just a fleeting fancy, passing whim if you will.

The console (as with mine) looks butt ugly and there is not a lot you can do to overcome this - although you do get used to it.

You are correct about the adjustment of the clutch and the tune.  My bike after a service seems to be a lot better - although I was not happy with the 8k service - the bike never seemed to be quite right.  Just on the service and how that affects the machine.  I had a new tune put in and it seems to be better. 

The previous service had put too much oil in the bike (not sure how this can happen for an approved service place but apparently it did) and as a result there was oil in the butterfly valves (either that or the bike got really really hot at some point - in all fairness, we did throw the bikes around a bit at the training session we all went on).

The performance issue, cold starting issues and stalling were attributed to loose header bolts.  This meant that the headers were not seated and sealed properly meaning that the sensors in the exhaust were not reading the correct information.  How the header bolts got that loose is still up for debate.

You also have to look for things like worn bushes in the clutch lever that also have an impact on how the clutch mechanism behaves (apparently).

So, all in all, yes, the servicing of these machines is extremely important - particularly when doing a comparison between different models.

I traded my 2015 RM in on a 2017 (purely for resale value) thinking that the extra gizmos were a bit of a wank but as I have got to use it, there are some real practical elements to them.  For example, when you are running low on petrol and you need to find a servo - reasonably quickly, the feature of the GPS to identify all the servo's in the local area is a real handy feature. 

Tyre pressure indicators, I thought were pretty over the top but now I find that it can be like an early warning system for a larger more sinister problem. 

Temperature gauge seems to read a little bit higher than actual but it gives you an indication - especially when your pillion complains it's cold 🙂

Having a really large digital speedo on the screen is a real plus in my book. 

I find the fairing is nice and solid.  It does not flex and move. 

What I did find was that I was getting a lot of reflection in the screen from the tank - particularly on bright sunny days - which was very distracting.  I swapped out my OEM screen for a freedom shields screen with the lip on it and now it's happy days.  Pillion also indicates that there is less buffeting at the back - I never really had a bad buffeting problem at the pointy end so can't really comment on that.

If I had to criticise the gauge area, the only thing that I would change is the speedo and tacho.  Mine currently have a red light behind them and I find at night time that it is very bright, the red bleeds into the face of the gauge (like a child applying her mothers lipstick) and is very difficult to read.  It would be nice to have the choice of colors (my preference would be blue) and intensity.  This way you could dial the intensity back a bit and it would be easier to read (oh, had white backlighting on the 2015 and that has a tendency (in different lights) to blend in with the face of the dial - again not enabling you to see the dial properly).  I am considering the black faced dials to overcome this issue (hopefully) but I want to see them in action first.

The only other thing that I changed was the tyres.  Some like the dunlops but for me they did not work the way I wanted them to.  I had them changed for Michelin commanders and I feel that this was a worthwhile investment.  The bike does not seem to slip and slide so much in the wet now - don't get me wrong, you can still have it skip out on you if you are not careful but the tyres are now a little more forgiving (in my opinion).
Ulysses #30673
IMRG #AU100394
Current: RoadMaster (ebony and ivory)
Highett Victoria Australia
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
crash wrote:
Oh my goodness V-Twin, soft you say........ That indicates that this is more than just a fleeting fancy, passing whim if you will.
Maybe Crash, maybe... 😉

crash wrote:
The previous service had put too much oil in the bike (not sure how this can happen for an approved service place but apparently it did) and as a result there was oil in the butterfly valves (either that or the bike got really really hot at some point - in all fairness, we did throw the bikes around a bit at the training session we all went on).
I don't believe 'throwing it around was the cause.  Otherwise, all the attendees at the training would have the same issue.  Although I never replaced the oil myself, the capacity can vary from one TS111 to another.  So, if the mechanic measured a predefined amount of oil and poured the lot in, it could be over filled.

crash wrote:
You also have to look for things like worn bushes in the clutch lever that also have an impact on how the clutch mechanism behaves (apparently).
Is there any more you can tell us about this?  Where are these bushes located?  Within the clutch lever mechanism or near the primary?  Are they standard replacement items during service?

crash wrote:
there are some real practical elements to them.  For example, when you are running low on petrol, and you need to find a servo - reasonably quickly, the feature of the GPS to identify all the servo's in the local area is a real handy feature. 
Yes, I agree.  That feature, once the map software is updated, seems to work well.

crash wrote:
Tyre pressure indicators, I thought were pretty over the top but now I find that it can be like an early warning system for a larger more sinister problem.
Aside from the added wind protection from the fairing, I would consider alloy wheels (tubed tyres) and TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System) to be the next major benefits.  We all know how important it is to check our tyre pressures regularly, but how many of us without TPMS do that?  I only check mine once a fortnight.  Assuming the TPMS is accurate, they are a great tool.  Interestingly, TPMS is only available on $50K Harley-Davidson CVO models.  So a big thumbs up to Indian for making the TPMS standard on big bikes.  As for the alloy wheels, my Vintage runs on tubed tyres.  A puncture on the side of the road cannot be fixed... at least, not by me.

crash wrote:
The only other thing that I changed was the tyres.  Some like the dunlops but for me they did not work the way I wanted them to.  I had them changed for Michelin Commander 2 and I feel that this was a worthwhile investment.
Yes, it seems OEM tyres are pretty 'average'.  I would consider changing the tyres on a new bike also.

All great tips and feedback to make this thread beneficial to anyone considering a Chieftain or a Roadmaster.
Melbourne, Victoria
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CHF10 Senior Member 2,396 posts
CHF10
I have the last of the non-Ride Command 2016 models (deliberately - I could have bought a 2017) and I have TPMS and oil temperature indicators in my trip computer.

It will be interested to see how I find riding a bike with Ride Command as I think it looks butt ugly too. I also want to ride to get away from technology, since it's already a huge part of my daily life. I didn't buy a Chieftain for the fairing or windshield. I primarily bought it for the hard, lockable bags.

I personally prefer the rake of the Chief and the Vintage - they look far more properly proportioned to me. But there was no hard bag option for those. And the Springfield rake looked too short to me without the fairing. I'm still waiting for the 114 Road King Special! [wink]

Biggest difference I'm keen to try, is the 19 inch front wheel as it's a mod I want to do to mine.
Live free or die!
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Dr.Shifty Senior Member 1,623 posts
Dr.Shifty
Here's some clarification on a few issues raised in the last few posts.

The clutch cable itself does not get lubricated, it's got a liner inside that does not need lube. Trying to lube the cable can gum it up.
The cable ends do get lubricated, as does the clutch lever pivot. Each end of the cable has a nylon sleeve around the nipple to ease the slight rotation it goes through when you pull in the lever. The pivot bolt is easily removed once the cable is loose or removed. It sits in a bush that does not need replacement, only lube. Use moly or lithium grease that will stay in there. I use non-fling chain lube - Motorex Road Strong.

I've appreciated having the TPMS on this bike as the tyres are so hard to check, the rear particularly. However, aftermarket TPMS systems that work with a phone are also available. Just screw the gadget on the valve in place of the normal cap. When I get my tyres changed I'll have them put in a longer 90 degree valve stem to make fitting the air hose easier.

When I went looking for the ambient temp sensor in the manual I could not find it, only the intake temp sensor. I think they use this for ambient and as it's attached to the intake manifold it gets warm. That is probably the reason behind the higher temp reading Crash mentions.

My Scout had the red speedo backlight and it was a pain. The Springfield DH has the black speedo with white light and is no problem.
Cheers, Kim.

From Woodrising (no, nobody else has heard of it either)
Rides a Springfield Dark Horse
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Darkhorse Founding Member 108 posts
Darkhorse
Hi V Twin. I read the review with some interest as I am also looking at going up a step into an older gentlemen's bike. In light of the comments in regards to the screen and the overall protection how do you think it might be in summer. I know from a previous post you have made the comments about riding a RM and the heat you felt then. Would this bike be a similar experience. I love the nakedness of the DH but the cold weather coming to Melbourne has me thinking I might need some protection. What do you think?
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
Darkhorse wrote:
I am also looking at going up a step into an older gentlemen's bike. In light of the comments in regards to the screen and the overall protection how do you think it might be in summer. I know from a previous post you have made the comments about riding a RM and the heat you felt then.
Welcome to the 'old mans' club' 😆.  I would expect a Chieftain will be hotter in summer.  Probably, not as bad as a Roadmaster, as Chieftains don't have lower fairings but hotter than naked bikes for sure.

After I calmed down from the prospect of a new toy, I've decided to hold off until a major update in a year or two.  I couldn't justify the changeover price tag.  As great as 2018 Chieftain is, most of the bike is identical to our Chiefs.  Aside from the 19-inch wheels, chopped fender and the GPS, it is the same bike as the original 2014 Chieftain.  I hear rumours of a more substantial update, so that is that.

Darkhorse wrote:
I love the nakedness of the DH but the cold weather coming to Melbourne has me thinking I might need some protection. What do you think?
So, if I am not upgrading, what is my option?  Clip-on windshield.  I have taken a 13-inch windshield for a test ride, and it probably could do the job.  I have brought back my original screen from a mate, and I will get it chopped to suit me.  It is not an exact science, and there are pros and cons to this decision.  I should have it chopped sometime next week.  I will write up a post in due course.  I'm happy for you to take my bike for a spin once it is all done and you decide for yourself if this is a viable alternative for you.
Melbourne, Victoria
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Dr.Shifty Senior Member 1,623 posts
Dr.Shifty
V-Twin wrote:
So, if I am not upgrading, what is my option?  Clip-on windshield. 


Windshield plus these. I've recently put a pair of hand guards on the Springfield. Coupled with the shield they give good protection from wind and rain - only had them in light rain so far. These come from IndianAfterMarket, Marcus on the international forum.

handguards 01.jpg 

handguards 02.jpg 
Cheers, Kim.

From Woodrising (no, nobody else has heard of it either)
Rides a Springfield Dark Horse
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
Dr.Shifty wrote:
I've recently put a pair of hand guards on the Springfield. 
😳 No!  Just NO!!  🙈😬  

My hands are fine.  I am trying to minimise the wind hitting my chest.   

Shifty, how much wind did those lower metal defectors reduce?  Could you tell the difference?
Melbourne, Victoria
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CHF10 Senior Member 2,396 posts
CHF10

V-Twin wrote:
So, if I am not upgrading, what is my option?

[wink] [wink] [wink] Ã°Å¸Ëœâ€šÃ°Å¸Ëœâ€šÃ°Å¸Ëœâ€š

[1346452566000_8966629]
Live free or die!
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Dr.Shifty Senior Member 1,623 posts
Dr.Shifty
V-Twin wrote:
 

Shifty, how much wind did those lower metal defectors reduce?  Could you tell the difference?


They stopped the buffeting that shook my helmet around and blurred my vision when I rode with the windshield. I now get no buffeting unless there is heavy side wind and it's not the problem that it once was.

Different helmets will perform differently, and my helmet is a Shark Evoline 3 that can be used as full face or open face with the chin bar flipped over to the back. When the bar was over the back the buffeting was greatly reduced even before the lowers went on.

When the lowers went on, even without the windshield, the wind flow around my legs was lighter.
Cheers, Kim.

From Woodrising (no, nobody else has heard of it either)
Rides a Springfield Dark Horse
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
Thanks Shifty.  Appreciate your feedback.  Having seen your Scout and your Springfield, I figured you would be the man to ask about the wind management.

I know we are different height but out of interest, what is the height of your screen?  Measured down the centre from the top of the shield to the headlight opening?  I have tried a 12-inch screen at 100kph for 10kms then another 10kms on my return and it seem to work well.  However, out of precaution, I might make mine 13-inches.  I have 3 lines of tapes attached to my standard Vintage shield for test riding.  I will be getting my windshield chopped so that I never have to look through it.  
Melbourne, Victoria
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Dr.Shifty Senior Member 1,623 posts
Dr.Shifty
My screen is 15 inches from the top to the headlight opening. I look through it if I'm slouched a bit but over it if I sit up. I'm 5' 10" so you would see the road a bit closer than I do.
Cheers, Kim.

From Woodrising (no, nobody else has heard of it either)
Rides a Springfield Dark Horse
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V-Twin Founding Member 7,820 posts
V-Twin
Dr.Shifty wrote:
My screen is 15 inches from the top to the headlight opening.
Would you mind conducting a little experiment?  Only when it is safe to do so. 

Cruise along at 100kph on a freeway or something similar.  Position your open palm on your forehead on the helmet (doesn't matter which way your palm is facing, front of the bike or behind).  Then, lift your hand up slowly until you feel the rush of wind flowing above your windshield... how many inches above your head did you had to lift your hand?  ...approximately?  I suspect about 4 or 5 inches?


Second question.  Does that 'wind gap' change?  Different speed?

Cheers!
Melbourne, Victoria
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