MalR

I must be doing something wrong surely

Took off the side cover to plug in the battery tender as was not riding for a couple of weeks, last night went to put it back on and it either hits the seat or hits the passenger foot peg.  Ended up taking off the foot peg, put the cover on and put the peg back on

Surely I am doing something wrong, the other side is not an issue at all.

Melbourne - Victoria
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MalR
Sorry should have added is a Chief Vintage
Melbourne - Victoria
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Doely
MalR wrote:

I must be doing something wrong surely

Took off the side cover to plug in the battery tender as was not riding for a couple of weeks, last night went to put it back on and it either hits the seat or hits the passenger foot peg.  Ended up taking off the foot peg, put the cover on and put the peg back on

Surely I am doing something wrong, the other side is not an issue at all.


yeah they are a bit tricky but shouldn't have to take the passenger peg off. Have had a few moments on me RM like that .lol  The seat flap is the prob i think ,i usully lift that then slide mine on . I make sure i line the cut out over the crash bar for the rear bags then and usully no prob .👍😉  Just a bit of practice . ðŸ˜
  Nice bike by the way ðŸ‘ðŸ˜ƒ
Cheers Ray
Gympie QLD😎
Ride Free Ride Safe
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JuanPoop
MalR wrote:

I must be doing something wrong surely

Took off the side cover to plug in the battery tender as was not riding for a couple of weeks, last night went to put it back on and it either hits the seat or hits the passenger foot peg.  Ended up taking off the foot peg, put the cover on and put the peg back on

Surely I am doing something wrong, the other side is not an issue at all.



Hi MalR,

Like Doely said, just a bit of practice to find the right sequence.  With mine, I feed the rear slot in the plastic cover at a slight angle down (and a tad out from the bike) into its position, then the front slot seems to find its way to the correct position fairly naturally.  I get both partially inserted into the receiving rubber connectors and press them in to close together.  This works on both sides for me, but mine is a different cycle type to yours, so you might need a variation to the above to make it work.

Another thing to consider is to avoid taking off the side cover altogether for routine tasks (e.g. battery tender connection and/or PVCX plug-in).

I have mine set up with a small extension for the battery tender that pokes out of the front fractionally, is fairly easy to get to and saves the hassle of pulling the cover off and putting it back on every time I connect to it - which is frequently.  I also have my PVCX cable next to it and although I don't need to access it as often as the tender, I have found that to be quite handy as well.  I cable tied the excess cables to ensure it fits in the gap of the frame and stays put under riding conditions.  I haven't had any trouble whatsoever with this set up to date.

The added benefit is that I am putting less wear and tear on the rubber connectors for the left side cover.  It seems that the more these covers are removed and replaced, the more loose they can become, the greater risk of them flying off at highway speeds (which happens, as I have read on various forums).  I really only need to remove the covers when I clean the bike - which is NOT all that often.  ÃƒÆ’°Å¸Ëœâ€°

The photo isn't a great one, but I think you will get the idea.  Yellow is the battery tender connection (CTEK) and the red is the PVCX connection.  

 Hope this helps!

IMG_0685.jpg

aka - John
2017 Springfield - grey / burgundy
Northern Beaches - Sydney
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MalR

Hi
Thanks for that, thanks to all in fact

I like the idea of having the plug out of the cover, will do that, have more than enough connectors here to do that.

 

The PVCX plug, what is that one for, did see a second plug there but no idea what it is for


JuanPoop wrote:


Hi MalR,

Like Doely said, just a bit of practice to find the right sequence.  With mine, I feed the rear slot in the plastic cover at a slight angle down (and a tad out from the bike) into its position, then the front slot seems to find its way to the correct position fairly naturally.  I get both partially inserted into the receiving rubber connectors and press them in to close together.  This works on both sides for me, but mine is a different cycle type to yours, so you might need a variation to the above to make it work.

Another thing to consider is to avoid taking off the side cover altogether for routine tasks (e.g. battery tender connection and/or PVCX plug-in).

I have mine set up with a small extension for the battery tender that pokes out of the front fractionally, is fairly easy to get to and saves the hassle of pulling the cover off and putting it back on every time I connect to it - which is frequently.  I also have my PVCX cable next to it and although I don't need to access it as often as the tender, I have found that to be quite handy as well.  I cable tied the excess cables to ensure it fits in the gap of the frame and stays put under riding conditions.  I haven't had any trouble whatsoever with this set up to date.

The added benefit is that I am putting less wear and tear on the rubber connectors for the left side cover.  It seems that the more these cover are removed and replaced, the more loose they can become, the greater risk of them flying off at highway speeds (which happens, as I have read on various forums).  I really only need to remove the covers when I clean the bike - which is NOT all that often.  ÃƒÆ’°Å¸Ëœâ€°

The photo isn't a great one, but I think you will get the idea.  Yellow is the battery tender connection (CTEK) and the red is the PVCX connection.  

 Hope this helps!

IMG_0685.jpg

Melbourne - Victoria
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JuanPoop
MalR wrote:

Hi
Thanks for that, thanks to all in fact

I like the idea of having the plug out of the cover, will do that, have more than enough connectors here to do that.

The PVCX plug, what is that one for, did see a second plug there but no idea what it is for



The PVCX is a flash tuner to change the tune on the ECU of our bikes.  It reads logs, feeds into tuning software and ultimately flashes the desired tune onto the bike, which can be changed depending on the riders desires - better performance, fuel consumption, idle revs, throttle response, etc, etc.  It can also be changed whenever a performance mod is made - eg if you add stage1 pipes/AC, or stage 2 cams (as I have), or decat, or add new headers, etc - you can use it to adjust the tune to better suit the bike.  

There are loads of threads on here and the USA forums if interested. It is addictive - so be warned!!!

aka - John
2017 Springfield - grey / burgundy
Northern Beaches - Sydney
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JuanPoop
MalR wrote:

Hi
Thanks for that, thanks to all in fact

I like the idea of having the plug out of the cover, will do that, have more than enough connectors here to do that.

The PVCX plug, what is that one for, did see a second plug there but no idea what it is for



In addition, I am thinking about an enhancement to cover the ends of the connectors while riding - to protect them from the weather.  I would like it to be something simple, easy to remove and effective.  Maybe something that clips over the connectors (together), or something they sit it and you can tighten the protector around the cables. I don't think it has to be 100% weather proof - so long at it keeps the connectors relatively dry and dirt free.  

Any ideas are welcome!!


Edit - By the way, it might not be obvious from the photo, but at the length I have the cables tied to, I can tuck them fairly neatly in behind the frame/cover for general protection for riding.  The enhancement is so that I don't have to do that (sheesh - how lazy is that?). 

Yep - OCD tendencies...


aka - John
2017 Springfield - grey / burgundy
Northern Beaches - Sydney
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MalR

I guess this leads me to another question, given that there are so many plugs, systems etc around the bike, is there a 12v power source around the headlight or handle bars, thinking of mounting something like a gopro or camera there but will need power to charge it.  

 

Is more for my safety in that event of something happening

 

My idea if not was to run power from the tender up under the tank to the front however as John states, OCD 🙂

Melbourne - Victoria
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Croc
I've had no problems removing & replacing side covers on my Chief Vintage.  As has been said here already, slide them in, line them up with the holes & it should be good.  I double check to make sure they have been seated properly though.
I've got a tender for my Vintage also, I've set it up virtually the same as Jaun's picture.  It is a CTEK.  The fitting has enough length to put it just inside the side cover when not in use & can easily be pulled out to charge.  The plug already has an attached end cap that protects the inputs.
I'm Not Completely Useless . .
I Can Be Used As A Bad Example!

Kwinana W.A.

Ulysses   #48275
IMRG      #100932
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JuanPoop
Croc wrote:
I've had no problems removing & replacing side covers on my Chief Vintage.  As has been said here already, slide them in, line them up with the holes & it should be good.  I double check to make sure they have been seated properly though.
I've got a tender for my Vintage also, I've set it up virtually the same as Jaun's picture.  It is a CTEK.  The fitting has enough length to put it just inside the side cover when not in use & can easily be pulled out to charge.  The plug already has an attached end cap that protects the inputs.


Yes, good point - the CTEK does have a rubber cover.  It has worked its way back a little (on mine) and has been out of sight.

I just moved it forward again and will start using it for its stated purpose - thanks for the prompt!!

I guess I can just continue to shove the PVCX cable back behind the frame when riding.  

Job done!!  I love when the answer is "do nothing"!!

aka - John
2017 Springfield - grey / burgundy
Northern Beaches - Sydney
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V-Twin
MalR wrote:
Sorry should have added is a Chief Vintage
Hey MalR, I ride a Vintage as well.  Like others have mentioned, lifting the saddle draperies should help reattach the side cover without removing the foot peg.  From memory, slide the side cover back on near the foot peg first, then reattach the pointy bit of the side cover that goes near the fuel tank.

Also, do make a note of how far the side cover attachment pins on the side covers sinks into the rubber grommets. I have heard of several covers flying off at highway speed due to improper or half pushed in attachment.  Just push them in firmly.

As for the tender lead, I also have my plug poking out from behind the rear cylinder (between two plastic side covers).  I just fish around and pull the cable out by hand and reconnect.  When I disconnect the tender lead, just stuff it back in the cavity between the two side covers.  My tender plug has not melted or anything bad happened in 3 years+.  It is tricky to fish out the cable immediately after a ride (hot engine), but I usually wait a few hours before plugging the tender back on so no problem for me.
Let's be kind to one another.
Melbourne, Victoria
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Richard Dixon
 I have relocated the tender to front of the cover so always accessible, as advised above, the plugs on the back of the covers are not really solid and the more that you remove the cover the more fragile they become..... I have lost 1 on the RHS, tried supper glue but did not last too long.... When removing you need to know where the pugs are & grad the cover near there, pull quickly and will come straight out, when returning the cover, make sure you line them up 1st & then push quickly & plugs will enter rubber grommet completely secure
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V-Twin
...the plugs on the back of the covers are not really solid and the more that you remove the cover the more fragile they become..... I have lost 1 on the RHS...
Hi Richard,

Would you be able to take photos of the plastic plugs of your 'good' side cover (LHS) and your RHS cover and post here?  Specifically, the pin-side of the covers.  Why?  If my memory serves me correctly, I think Polaris revised the design of side covers - specifically, I believe their revised covers had 'reinforced' pins with additional plastic 'fins' at the base of the pins to minimise them from snapping off.  I just want to see if your's have 'fins' on all the pins.
Let's be kind to one another.
Melbourne, Victoria
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Richard Dixon
Hey V-Twin, I am currently O/S returning next week, so will keep this post & insert photos when home.
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MalR

Thanks for all the replies and ideas

 

Will be relocating the tender forward so I can just plug in, make it much easier

Melbourne - Victoria
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Richard Dixon
Hey V-Twin,
Here are pictures of RHS engine cover, 2 good so far + 1 repaired with superglue plus !

Plug 2 RHS cover.jpg  Plug RHS cover.jpg  Repaired plug RHS cover.jpg 
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V-Twin
Hey V-Twin,
Here are pictures of RHS engine cover, 2 good so far + 1 repaired with superglue plus !

    Repaired plug RHS cover.jpg 
Hi Richard,

Thanks for posting your side cover photo.  As suspected, you have the pre-revised side cover.  Please have a look at my right-hand cover.

indian-vintage-side-cover.jpg 


Two out of three pins are the same, but the one that broke on your side cover was revised in later models and it has reinforcement tabs at the base of the pins.  If anyone reading this post have the pre-revised (less reinforced) design pin, it might be worthwhile putting some plastic glue at the base of the pin before it breaks?
Let's be kind to one another.
Melbourne, Victoria
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Bhayward1010
I like the idea of adding an extension and being able to have the plug not behind the cover; therefore not having to remove the side cover every time I plug in my tender.
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JuanPoop
Yeah agree - I have had the above set up in place for well over a year and it works well.  The tender gets connected about once a week, so that is over 50 repetitions of removing and replacing the left side cover that have been avoided.

aka - John
2017 Springfield - grey / burgundy
Northern Beaches - Sydney
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